Coat construction



Jame-13, 1967 B. FRlE-IDLEIN COAT CONSTRUCTION 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed June 25, 1966 li -1 E 3 TOT 1 @EMWW F/ME MM 1F j y W W W B. FRIEDLEEN Jmm 13, 1967 GOAT CONSTRUCT I ON 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 Filed June 23, 1966 LVVEIYTOE w 5 U U J1me H3, ME? B. FRIEDLEIN 3,32

COAT CONSTRUCT ION Filed June 1966 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 3,324,479 COAT CONSTRUCTION Bernard lFriedlcin, Bank St. 28, Dusseldorf, Germany Filed .l'nne 23, 1966, Ser. No. 559,799 9 Claims. (Cl. 2-93) This application is a continuation-in-part of my application Ser. No. 196,569 filed May 17, 1962.

The present invention relates to a garment construction. More particularly, this invention relates to a coat construction wherein a coat blank is provided with a cut out which comprises a first substantially vertical cut out section extending from about the breast to about the waist, a second substantially vertical cut out section extending from about the hip to about the waist, and a transverse cut out section connecting said vertical cut out sections.

In the making of coats it is desirable that they be so constructed that the chest portion and the hip portion have a relative degree of fullness, whereas the waist portion should desirably be somewhat drawn in. This assures a good fit for the normal person, inasmuch as provision is made for the relatively broader chest and hips and the relatively narrower waist.

Heretofore such construction has generally been achieved by subjecting the coat form to form stretching, molding, hot stretching or the like so as to expand or stretch the chest region and also short hauling at the area of the sleeve hole. Such a hot forming technique is somewhat disadvantageous, however, in that when the coat is dry cleaned or laundered it will tend to resume the original dimensional configuration it had prior to shaping by hot forming. That is, a coat which has been shaped by hot forming exhibits relatively poor dimensional stability when laundered, pressed, or dry cleaned, in that the previously stretchedchest portion will tend to shrink to its original (uns-tretche-d) configuration. This is particularly true in the case of coats made of polyester, e.g., Du Ponts Dacron, or of blends of polyester and other materials such as cotton, wool, or the like. Thus, although polyester is stretchable by means of heat and pressure, it readily loses its stretched character and returns to its original unstretched condition when subjected to the conditions normally encountered in laundering, pressing, or dry cleaning.

Techniques other than hot forming have been attempted in order to provide for relative fullness in the breast and hip regions. Generally these involve cutting out a portion of fabric, e.g., a gusset or gore, from the coat form to promote therein a relative tightness, and reinserting such portion into another portion of the coat form so as to introduce therein a relative fullness. This procedure is time consuming and expensive, particularly as regards the cutting and sewing required for the insertion of the gore. Moreover, it has not been altogether satisfactory in producing coats having a proper balance between front and back or in having proper fullness in the hip region.

Another approach is suggested by the following. If a sheet of paper is folded and creased together and then fitted to the human body from shoulder to hip, it is apparent that the fold line will be spaced from (not contact) the person at the waist. If a cut is now made from below and extending through the hip and to the waist, the material can then be readily shaped, but it will be apparent that there is insufficient horizontal material in the hip region.

Heretofore it has been customary, when utilizing cut outs and seams in a jacket, to relate each such seam or cut out to one specific section of the jacket, so that it has not been possible to add horizontal width at the hip region,

3,324,479 Patented June 13, 1967 and hence a truly satisfactory waist fit has not been achieved.

Conventional means for fitting the waist rely upon having the back of the jacket shorter than the front so that the back tends to draw the front of the jacket into the Waist. This is disadvantageous in that a vertical tension fold results between the front and back. On Wearing the jacket a fold is developed running from the back and slanted downward to the waist and to the front closing button.

It is an object of this invention to provide a coat construction which results in fullness at the breast and hip regions and relative tightness at the waist without recourse to stretching or molding or short hauling the coat fabric.

Another object is a coat construction wherein there is provided a fullness precisely at the hip bone.

Yet another object is to provide a coat construction that is easily and economically manufactured, which construction exhibits a fullness at the hip without the necessity of introducing a gore or gusset in the hip region.

Additional objects, characteristics, and advantages of my invention will become apparent from the following description, taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings wherein:

FIG. 1 is a front view of a coat blank having a conventional neck or collar bone cut out and having a zig-zag cut out made in accordance with my invention;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged view of the cut out portion of the coat blank of FIG. 1, the cut out being such that the pocket is slanted downwardly toward the rear;

FIG. 3 is an enlarged view similar to FIG. 2 but shows another embodiment of the cut out wherein the pocket is horizontal;

FIG. 4 is a front View of a coat blank having no neck out out but having a cut out made in accordance with my lnvention;

FIG. 5 is an enlarged view of the cut out portion of the coat blank of FIG. 4;

FIG. 6 is an enlarged view similar to FIG. 5 but shows the upper edges of the cut out brought together; and

FIG. 7 shows the finished coat made in accordance with my invention.

Referring to FIG. 1, there is shown my coat blank 10. The blank 10' is the front part of the coat and is, of course, shown flat, i.e., planar. The front edge 2 corresponds to the center of the person. The lapel is designated by the reference numeral 4'. The blank includes a shoulder seam 6, a sleeve opening 8, and a neck hole 9. The blank is provided with a conventional neck or collar bone cut out 12. When the two edges 12a, 12b are sewn together this tends to impart some degree of fullness to the breast region. The breast pocket is designated by the reference character 14. All of the foregoing is conventional.

The zig-zag cut out which characterizes my invention, generally designated by the reference character 16, is made up of a first substantially vertical cut out section 18, a second substantially vertical cut out section 20, and a transverse cut out section 22 which connects vertical sections 18 and 20.

In order to assure proper balance as well as adequate fullness at the breast and hip regions it is essential that the first vertical cut out section 18 commence at the breast 24 and extend to about the waist line 26, and that the second vertical cut out section 20 extend from about the waist line 26 to the hip bone 28. Transverse cut out section 22 connects the lower portion of vertical cut out 3 section 18 with the upper portion of vertical cut out section 20.

It will be noted that in the foregoing construction vertical cut out section 20* is laterally offset from vertical cut out section 18, the distance of the offset being the length of transverse cut out section 22. This distance should be such that vertical cut out section 20 terminates at the hip 28. Such construction provides additional material at the hip 28, thereby guaranteeing the requisite fullness required at the hip. Moreover, the fullness is achieved without the necessity of inserting any additional separate piece of material, e.g., a gore or gusset, into the hip region.

As shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, vertical cut out section 20 terminates at the hip 28. This point is desirably at about the center of the pocket 30. Of course, it is important that this vertical cut out section 20' terminate at the hip 28 rather than at the side seam 31, inasmuch as the region where fullness is required is at the hip rather than at the side.

In the embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the pocket 30 is shown to be slanted downwardly toward the rear, and the transverse cut out section 22 is also slanted downwardly. Of course, the pocket 30 may instead be horizontal, as illustrated in FIG. 3, in which case the transverse cut out section 22 may also be horizontal.

The length relationships of the cut out sections are also important if proper balance and fullness are to be achieved. Thus cuts 18a and 18b of vertical cut out section 18 should be essentially the same length. The same is true as regards cuts 20a and 20b of vertical cut out section 20 and as regards cuts 22a and 22b of transverse cut out section 22.

It is to be noted that my zig-zag cut out construction assures fullness not only at the hip region but also in the breast region. Thus, when edge 18b is sewn to edge 18a the first vertical cut out section 18 cooperates with the (sewn together) neck cut out 12 to assure proper fullness in the breast region, a greater fullness than has been heretofore attained.

FIGS. 4 and 5 illustrate another embodiment of my invention. In this instance, the neck cut out 12 shown in FIG. 1 is eliminated. Instead, that portion above the breast 24 is pinched together (portions prior to being pinched together being shown between the dotted lines 32, 34). This pinching eliminates the need for any neck out out. That is, by virtue of the pinching, the angle between cuts 18a and 18b defining vertical cut out section 18 is increased as shown in FIG. 5. It will be noted that this angle is larger than the corresponding angle shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. Of course, the lower portions 35a and 35b of the coat blank are proportionately further removed from one another. Thus, when edges 18a and 18b (FIG. 5) are sewn together (FIG. 6) the amount of fullness imparted to the breast region is essentially the same as that obtained utilizing the construction shown in FIG. 1 (wherein the neck cut out 12 and the vertical cut out section 18 cooperates to impart the breast fullness).

When edges 18a and 18b are brought together, as shown in FIG. 6, there is an overlap between edges 22a and 22b (angle 36) which permits one to make appropriate adjustments to obtain satisfactory balance (length relationship between front and back). Additionally, the overlap between edges 20a and 20b (angle 38) provides material for use at the hip 28 to obtain a substantial fullness. Thus, in effect I am able to transfer material from the breast region to the hip region.

The transverse cut out section 22 makes it possible to adjust the balance (length relationship between front and back) by increasing or decreasing the angle 36. This permits one to readily adapt my construction to different figures, whether fat, thin, or normal.

The transverse cut out section (waist cut out section) 22 and the provision of the angle 36 exert a multiple effect on the balance, Thus, any change of the angle 36 between the edges 22a and 22b affects the balance relative to the rear or back part of the coat approximately four times.

It will be noted that in all of the embodiments of my invention, the sides 18a, 22a, 20a and 18b, 22b, 20b of cut out 16 each form a discontinuous line. The provision of such a construction is advantageous in that it permits rapid and true alignment of the edges 18a and 18b and enables one to readily stitch the edges defining the cut outs together to effect a true and accurate connection. This ensures proper balance between front and back and also establishes requisite fullness in the breast region and particularly in the hip region while at the same time establishing a tuck of the waist region.

It will additionally be seen that in the preferred construction both of the vertical cut out sections 18 and 20 are tapered, with their maximum widths at about the waist line, the width of each such cut out decreasing as the distance from the waist line increases.

Of course, the angle between cuts 18a and 18b and the angle between cuts 20a and 20b will each be acute. Transverse cut out section 22 will generally either be substantially horizontal or will incline downwardly from that portion beneath the breast to that portion above the hip. Where the transverse cut out section is so downwardly inclined, as where the pocket is also slanted downwardly rearward, the angle it makes with the horizontal is generally not greater than 45 degrees, preferably not greater than 30 degrees, and most preferably does not exceed about 20 degrees.

A finished coat made in accordance with my invention is shown in FIG. 7.

' It will be seen that the zig-zag dart construction characterizing my invention finds particular application in coats made of polyester or polyester blends. Thus, inasmuch as the coat acquires proper fullness in the breast and hip regions and requisite narrowness in the waist region without recourse to hot molding or short hauling, there is no tendency of the coat, upon laundering or dry cleaning and pressing, to lose its shape at the breast, or waist regions,

While my description has been made with respect to a coat, e.g., such as a mans suit coat or sport coat or a womans jacket, it is to be understood that it would also find application in womens dresses and the like.

Variations can of course be made without departing from the spirit of this invention.

Having 'thus described the invention, what is desired to secure and claim by Letters Patent is:

1. A coat blank having a breast portion, a hip portion and a waistline, a zig-zag cut out in said blank comprismg a first substantially downwardly divergent vertical cut out section extending from adjacent said breast portion to an area immediately adjacent said waistline, a second substantially upwardly diverted vertical cut out section extending from adjacent said hip portion to the area immediately adjacent said waistline, and a transverse cut out section connecting said vertical cut out sections at said waistline.

2. The coat blank of claim 1, said transverse cut out section being substantially horizontal.

3. The coat blank of claim 1, said transverse cut out section being inclined downwardly from that portion of said area beneath the breast portion to that portion of said area above the hip portion.

4. The coat blank of claim 1 wherein said second substantially vertical cut out section extends from about the center of said hip portion to said waistline area,

5. The coat blank of claim 1, said vertical cut out sections each being tapered such that the width of each of said section decreases as the distance of such width from the waistline increases.

6. The coat blank of claim 5 wherein said vertical cut out sections each terminate in an acute angle.

7. The coat blank of claim 1, the periphery of said cut References Cited out between said breast and hip portions forming a dis- UNITED STATES PATENTS continuous line.

8. The coat blank of claim 1, said blank comprising a 829,029 8/1906 McLoughlin 2 93 polyesten 5 2,128,303 8/1938 Kay 2-93 9. The coat blank of claim 1, the sides making up said 2,313,665 3/1943 Natale 2 93 first vertical cut out section being the same length, the 2,582,739 1/1952 Armour sides making up said second vertical cut out section being the same length, and the sides making up said transverse PATRICK LAWSON" Prmm'y Exammer' cut out section being the same length. 10 RICHARD J. SCANLAN, JR., Examiner. 

1. A COAT BLANK HAVING A BREAST PORTION, A HIP PORTION AND A WAISTLINE, A ZIG-ZAG CUT OUT IN SAID BLANK COMPRISING A FIRST SUBSTANTIALLY DOWNWARDLY DIVERGENT VERTICAL CUT OUT SECTION EXTENDING FROM ADJACENT SAID BREAST PORTION TO AN AREA IMMEDIATELY ADJACENT SAID WAISTLINE, A SECOND SUBSTANTIALLY UPWARDLY DIVERTED VERTICAL CUT OUT SECTION EXTENDING FROM ADJACENT SAID HIP PORTION TO THE AREA IMMEDIATELY ADJACENT SAID WAISTLINE, AND A TRANSVERSE CUT OUT SECTION CONNECTING SAID VERTICAL CUT OUT SECTIONS AT SAID WAISTLINE. 